Saturday, September 18, 2010

The Huilo Huilo Nature Preserve is an enormous area located in the Región de Los Rios in southern Chile.  It is the northern-most section of Patagonia.  The preserve is actually privately owned by Don Victor Petermann.  It is through his vision that this area will be transformed from a heavily logged valley, into a park that will allow visitors of all abilities to enter the wilderness of Chilean Patagonia. 

Within the preserve is the volcanic massif of Mocho-Choshuenco.  It is actually, one, now-dormant, volcano that while active created two separate peaks.  The Mocho (2422m) is a classic cone that rises 400 meters above a large plateau that creates a massive bench on the upper reaches of the mountain.  The Choshuenco (2415m) was actually formed when the crater walls of an older formation collapsed.  The contrast of the perfect symmetry of Mocho against the jaggedness of the Choshuenco makes the peak stunningly attractive. 

One of the most alluring aspects of this area is the light on this mountain.  It is impossible to describe, and I have failed to capture it accurately on film.  The afternoon sun gives the mountain an insane richness.  I have not seen anything like it in any other part if Chile.  The sunsets are unbelievable.

I am visiting because the directors of this preserve would like to create a way for people to visit the volcano without building a traditional ski resort.  I applaud this effort, and am trying to lend a hand the best I can.   I am working on an exchange of sorts.  The resort is generously providing luxurious lodging and meals, and I am donating my time as an experienced ski guide.  It’s Chile’s biggest holiday this weekend, so the hotel has been full, and I have managed to introduce a few people to “randonee” skiing.  It has been extremely fun.

This is one of the most inspiring mountains I have ever visited.  It is not the biggest, or the steepest, but it has so many facets.  Every time I go up the mountain, I see more routes, lines, and features that I would like to explore.  There are easy, 3000-foot descents, glaciers with crevasses and seracs, walls covered in rime ice, steep-fluted faces, gigantic cornices, and hundreds of different aspects going around the entire mountain.  It is a really neat playground, and I already can’t wait to return.

It doesn’t hurt that each night, I get to return to the greatest hotel on earth.  The hotel is actually two buildings, much like the volcano, each with their own distinct personality.  The Montaña Magica is a cone-shaped, stone building, with water pouring down moss-covered walls.  The Hotel Baobob is the inverse of this with beautiful wooden and glass architecture.  They are both completely handcrafted, and there is nothing like it anywhere in the world.  I guest recently told me that he felt like it was something out of Alice in Wonderland.  Of course, there are swimming pools, hot tubs, and a full-service spa.  The food is exquisite, and they have a microbrewery with the best beer in Chile!

If the mountain is socked in (which can happen, it is Patagonia after all) there are trails for hiking and mountain biking, as well as all kinds of other activities like horseback riding and the craziest zip-line ever. 

I spent most of my time working, but one afternoon I managed to get out for an ascent of the Choshuenco peak of the volcano.  It was spectacular!  It never seizes to amaze me how deceptive the volcanoes can be.  It always seems like the peak is right in front of you, but you keep climbing.  You get to the top and you can see forever.  From the top of Mocho-Choshuenco it’s possible to see at least ten other volcanoes!  When you turn the skis downhill the conveyer-belt runs in reverse.  I think I’ve claimed every descent the best run of my life.